SUNDAY TIMES: JORDAN FEATURE

Jordan Beyond the Headlines

I recently travelled to Jordan to write a feature for The Sunday Times,

Like many people, my perception of the region had been shaped, at least in part, by headlines. Yet Jordan quickly revealed itself to be a country that defies easy assumptions. It is a place of remarkable contrasts: ancient yet youthful, dramatic yet understated, deeply rooted in history while remaining warmly connected to the present.

What struck me most was the overwhelming sense of hospitality. Throughout my journey, whether in bustling Amman, the remote deserts of Wadi Rum or the villages scattered across the country's rugged landscapes, I encountered a generosity of spirit that felt genuine and effortless. Conversations were rarely rushed. Invitations for tea appeared frequently. Strangers became storytellers, guides and, on occasion, friends.

Jordan is also a country where history feels alive.

In many destinations, history is carefully preserved behind barriers, museum glass and information boards. In Jordan, it remains woven into everyday life. Ancient trade routes still shape modern journeys. Roman ruins rise unexpectedly from contemporary towns. Nabataean ingenuity continues to define the landscape. The past is not simply remembered here- it is lived alongside.

Of course, there are few places on Earth as iconic as Petra.

No photograph can truly prepare you for the moment the Treasury reveals itself through the narrow passage of the Siq. Yet what surprised me most was not the monument itself, but the atmosphere surrounding it. With visitor numbers being almost non existent, Petra felt more intimate and reflective than many travellers have experienced in decades. It was extraordinary to stand in silence and absorb the scale, craftsmanship and mystery of this extraordinary place without the hustle and bustle of the crowds.

Then there is Wadi Rum.

Photographs often describe it as a desert, but that word feels inadequate. Wadi Rum is a landscape of immense sandstone mountains, sweeping valleys and shifting colours that seem to change with every hour of the day. At sunrise and sunset, the desert glows with shades of red, gold and amber. At night, beneath vast desert skies, silence becomes almost tangible.

It is easy to understand why filmmakers have repeatedly chosen Wadi Rum to represent other worlds. Yet its greatest power lies not in its cinematic qualities, but in its ability to make you feel small in the best possible way. It is a landscape that encourages reflection and rewards stillness.

What emerged most strongly from my time in Jordan was a sense of authenticity.

In an era when many destinations are struggling under the weight of overtourism, Jordan currently offers something increasingly rare: the opportunity to experience world-class cultural and natural attractions without the crowds that often diminish them. There is space to wander, space to observe and space to connect with both the landscape and the people who call it home.

For travellers who seek depth rather than checklists, who value meaningful encounters over social media moments, Jordan offers a remarkable experience. It is a country of extraordinary beauty, certainly, but also of humanity, resilience and quiet confidence.

My journey there challenged assumptions, broadened perspectives and reminded me that some of the most rewarding travel experiences come when we move beyond the narratives we inherit and discover a place for ourselves.

Jordan is far more than a destination. It is a reminder that the world remains full of complexity, warmth and wonder for those willing to look beyond the headlines.